Homey, comfort meals geared to food in season is the subject of Bake The Seasons, a good-looking new cookbook by blogger and recipe developer Marcella DiLonardo (Penguin, $32).
Taught to cook by her Italian grandmothers, the author offers more than 100 easygoing savoury recipes for brunch, lunch and supper, plus a galaxy of tempting desserts. A promoter of the fruit and vegetables of Ontario’s Niagara region (she lives in Fonthill, Ont.), this energetic baker recommends farmers’ markets for what she calls her modernized rustic dishes. Many may be prepared in advance and taken from refrigerator to oven. Today’s strata is an example; she suggests it for breakfast but it suits any meal of the day. The author took all her own photographs, which are exceptional. Her chapter called Stocked Pantry stresses her belief that quality produces the best flavour.
White bread and regular mushrooms are options in this recipe.
Leek, Wild Mushroom and Bacon Strata
Serves 6
4 tablespoons (60 mL) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups (750 mL) sliced wild mushrooms (such as shiitake, chanterelle and oyster)
2 leeks, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 large eggs
1-1/2 cups (375 mL) whole milk
10 strips bacon, cooked crisp, crumbled
1-1/2 cups (375 mL) grated smoked Gouda cheese
8 cups (2L) cubed whole-grain bread
If baking the strata at once, preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 C). Grease a 9 by 12 inch (3 L) baking dish.
In a large, heavy frying pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add oil and cook garlic, stirring, for 30 seconds.
Add mushrooms and leeks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until mushrooms have softened and the leeks begin to turn translucent. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Fold in the cooked bacon, cheese and the leek mixture. Then fold in the bread, tossing until cubes are well coated. Pour into prepared baking pan.
If refrigerating strata to bake later, cover and refrigerate it for up to eight hours, then bring to room temperature before baking.
Bake strata in preheated oven for 45 to 50 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the egg custard is set. The centre should be firm and not jiggly. Let stand for five minutes before serving.
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