NEW YORK - It's no longer time for makeup to shine.
Top makeup artists say that matte makeup is an evolving beauty trend that should be good news for people of all skin types and tones. Matte doesn't necessarily mean flat - instead think of it as sheer or satiny - and it definitely tones down any dewiness or sparkle.
"I think it's going to be a matte world pretty soon," says Avon's global colour creative director Jillian Dempsey.
For this look, which can have a retro vibe, play up the eyes, she suggests. "I think this is the look that works best: matte skin with a little bit of a lined eye, some eye-shadow contrast and maybe some minimal black-brown, soft-lash look."
If you like a darker, vampier look, add a purple or red lip. A more moderate look is a smoky eye and nude matte lip. But, Dempsey warns, the matte skin will ramp up the effect of a heavily made up eye or lip exponentially.
There's also a risk of a matte foundation looking cakey or a lip looking chalky, so moisturizer or lip balm always comes first.
But don't let that scare you off, says Kayleen McAdams, celebrity makeup artist for Dior.
"Most people can wear this trend - it's harder for people to do dewy than matte because if you have oily skin, dewy is too much," she says. "Just be taking care of your skin."
Start off with an oil-free moisturizer and dab on with your finger a lip balm for a smooth surface. Then, McAdams says, try a lipstick that doesn't bleed.
There have been a lot of improvements in colour-cosmetics texture, Dempsey adds, so the products should both look good and feel good. To ease into a matte appearance, especially on the lips, she suggests using a stain or lip liner.
Since shine highlights imperfections, Dempsey thinks once people get used to using matte they'll grow to love it. "This is the secret to hiding a big pimple on your face: You match the colour of a powder to the face, press the powder and help it disappear."
Still, Jean Ford, co-founder of Benefit Cosmetics, says you shouldn't be too literal when it comes to matte in your beauty routine.
"A matte complexion does not mean layering on a heavy base," Ford says. "We all have areas that need spot concealing and require fuller coverage, but not the entirety of the face. Wearing a heavy-solid colour all over the skin, makes the complexion look lifeless and dull rather than youthful and fresh."
Benefit partner Jane Ford says a velvety, creamlike powder achieves the right balance. It will "glide over the skin effortlessly and appear as if you have not lifted a finger to your skin."
Oh, and that very tanned, took-a-lot-of-effort bronzed look? Forget it.
"We're moving away from bronze and tan, toward more porcelain or at least a pure look," says McAdams.
Dempsey agrees it is time for a new beauty routine. "The big bronze Gisele (Bundchen), we've been there done that. This is a new land of matte lips that hasn't surfaced in a while," she says. "I think people are wanting to change and this is definitely a change and a trend that's been knocking at the door for a while."
And, she adds, the beauty of makeup is, that trying something new is easy, inexpensive and easily removable.
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